Ever wondered why some knit fabrics hold their shape better than others? What makes double knits different from regular knits? And how do you choose the right one for your project?
This guide dives deep into the world of double knit fabrics - specialized textiles that combine the stretch of knits with the stability of wovens. You'll discover all major types like Ponte di Roma, scuba knit, and interlock, along with their unique properties, weights, and best uses. We'll cover everything from structure and durability to care instructions, helping both beginners and professionals make informed fabric choices.
Double knits offer unparalleled versatility for fashion design, and this comprehensive breakdown will show you exactly how to use them - keep reading to master these essential fabrics!
Table of Contents
- What Is Double Knit Fabric?
- The Complete List of Double Knit Fabric Types
- Properties & Benefits of Double Knit Fabrics
- How to Choose the Right Double Knit Fabric
- Conclusion
What Is Double Knit Fabric?
Double knit fabric is a distinctive category of knitted textiles characterized by its unique two-layer construction. Unlike single knits that use basic stitches, double knits are created through interlocking stitches that bind two layers of fabric together simultaneously during the knitting process. This interlocking technique forms loops on both sides of the fabric, which are then tightly connected to produce a single, unified structure. The result is a fabric that combines the stretch and comfort of traditional knits with the stability and density typically found in woven materials.
Thanks to its double-layered architecture, this fabric boasts superior thickness and durability compared to single knits. It maintains excellent shape retention, resists edge curling, and minimizes wrinkling—making it ideal for structured garments that require both flexibility and form. The tight interlocking weave also prevents unraveling, ensuring long-lasting wear. While it shares some properties with woven fabrics, double knit retains the inherent stretch of knits, offering a perfect balance between structure and comfort for everything from tailored blazers to form-fitting dresses.
The Complete List of Double Knit Fabric Types
Double knit fabrics come in various constructions, each offering unique characteristics that make them suitable for different applications in fashion and apparel. These fabrics combine the comfort of knits with the stability of wovens, creating versatile materials for everything from casual wear to structured garments.
Ponte di Roma (Ponte Knit)
Ponte di Roma is a premium double knit fabric known for its smooth, matte finish and excellent recovery. This medium-weight fabric typically combines polyester, rayon, and spandex to create a stable yet stretchy material that drapes beautifully. Its balanced construction makes it resistant to wrinkles and sagging, ideal for tailored pants, structured dresses, and fitted jackets that require both comfort and shape retention.
Interlock Knit Fabric
Interlock knit features a distinctive double-faced rib structure that creates a smooth surface on both sides. This fabric is thicker than standard jersey but maintains excellent stretch and recovery. The interlocking stitch pattern prevents curling at the edges, making it perfect for T-shirts, baby clothes, and lounge wear where comfort and durability are equally important.
Double-Jersey Fabric
Double-jersey fabric is constructed with two layers of jersey knit bonded together, creating a fabric that's reversible and more substantial than single jersey. Both sides display fine vertical ribs, offering excellent opacity and warmth without excessive weight. Commonly used for high-quality T-shirts, hoodies, and athletic wear, this fabric provides the softness of jersey with enhanced durability.
Double-Pique Fabric
Characterized by its waffle-like texture, double-pique offers superior breathability through its raised geometric pattern. The double-layer construction enhances moisture-wicking properties while maintaining the fabric's structural integrity. This makes it particularly suitable for polo shirts, summer dresses, and activewear where ventilation and comfort are priorities.
Scuba Knit Fabric
Scuba knit is a modern double knit with a smooth face and slight sheen, typically made from polyester and spandex blends. Its dense construction resembles thin neoprene, offering excellent body and shape retention. Designers favor scuba knit for bodycon dresses, structured skirts, and contemporary silhouettes that require both stretch and architectural form.
Double Jacquard Fabric
Double jacquard knit stands out with its intricate, often multicolored patterns woven directly into the fabric. This technique creates reversible designs with excellent drape and elasticity. More sophisticated than standard knits, jacquard fabrics are preferred for statement pieces, luxury sweaters, and high-end accessories where visual texture is key.
Liverpool Knit Fabric
Liverpool knit offers a substantial weight with moderate stretch, making it less elastic but more durable than other double knits. Its tight weave provides excellent opacity and resistance to fading, perfect for fitted dresses, skirts, and lightweight jackets that need to maintain their shape through repeated wear and washing.
Milano Knit Fabric
Milano knit features a compact, smooth finish with excellent recovery properties. This fabric strikes a balance between structure and comfort, making it versatile for various garments from professional wear to casual separates. Its refined appearance and consistent performance make it a reliable choice for manufacturers.
Rib Knit Fabric
Rib knit is instantly recognizable by its pronounced vertical ridges created by alternating knit and purl stitches. This construction gives exceptional crosswise stretch, making it ideal for cuffs, neckbands, and fitted garments that require flexibility. The textured surface also adds visual interest to basic designs.
Thermal Knit Fabric
Thermal knit features a distinctive honeycomb texture that traps air for insulation. Originally developed for thermal underwear, this breathable fabric now appears in casual wear and athleisure. The cellular structure provides warmth without bulk while allowing moisture evaporation.
Other Specialty Double Knits
This category includes innovative variations like bonded double knits, laminated constructions, and technical performance fabrics. These specialty materials often incorporate advanced features such as water resistance, enhanced compression, or unique surface treatments for specific applications in fashion and function.
Properties & Benefits of Double Knit Fabrics
Double knit fabrics have become essential in modern fashion due to their unique combination of performance and comfort. These fabrics offer an ideal balance between the stretch of knits and the stability of wovens, making them suitable for everything from structured blazers to form-fitting dresses. Let's explore the key properties that make double knits so valuable:
Structure & Stability
Double knit fabrics maintain excellent shape retention thanks to their interlocked two-layer construction. Unlike single knits that may stretch out over time, double knits provide a firm yet flexible foundation that resists sagging. This structural integrity makes them perfect for tailored garments that require clean lines without sacrificing movement.
Stretch & Recovery
One of the most valuable features of double knits is their ability to stretch while bouncing back to their original shape. The fabric's balanced elasticity ensures a comfortable fit that moves with the body, yet it doesn’t become loose or distorted after repeated wear. This makes double knits ideal for body-hugging dresses, athletic wear, and everyday clothing that needs to maintain its form.
Durability & Longevity
Thanks to their dense weave and reinforced structure, double knits are highly resistant to pilling, abrasion, and general wear. The double-layer construction prevents the fabric from thinning out or developing holes easily, ensuring garments remain in excellent condition even after frequent use. This durability makes them a cost-effective choice for long-lasting wardrobe staples.
Wrinkle & Fade Resistance
Double knits are naturally resistant to wrinkling, making them a low-maintenance option for travel-friendly clothing. Additionally, their tight weave helps retain color vibrancy, reducing fading even after multiple washes. This combination of easy care and lasting appearance makes double knits a favorite for both casual and professional attire.
Breathability & Comfort
Despite their thickness, many double knits offer surprising breathability due to moisture-wicking properties and air-permeable textures (such as double pique or thermal knits). The fabric's smooth inner layer feels soft against the skin, while its structure prevents clinginess, ensuring all-day comfort. Whether used for activewear or office-appropriate pieces, double knits provide a comfortable wearing experience without compromising style.
By combining these properties, double knit fabrics deliver exceptional performance that meets the demands of modern fashion—offering durability, comfort, and versatility in one premium material.
How to Choose the Right Double Knit Fabric
With so many double knit options available, knowing how to select the perfect fabric for your needs will ensure your project's success.
Understanding Fabric Weight and Thickness
Before selecting your perfect double knit fabric, it's essential to understand how weight and thickness impact both the look and performance of your finished garment.
Lightweight Double Knits (180-220 gsm)
Represented primarily by interlock knits, lightweight double knits are prized for their exceptional drape and fluid movement. These fabrics maintain the structural integrity of double knit construction while offering a graceful flow that makes them particularly suitable for garments requiring elegant movement. The lighter weight allows for excellent breathability, making them comfortable for extended wear in various climates. While they provide less insulation than heavier options, their versatility shines in flowing dresses, lightweight blouses, and summer tops where comfort and ease of movement take priority. The delicate balance between structure and fluidity in these knits makes them ideal for creating garments that skim rather than cling to the body.
Mid-Weight Double Knits (250-350 gsm)
Ponte di Roma stands as the classic example of mid-weight double knits, offering the perfect equilibrium between structure and flexibility. This weight range provides enough body to hold clean lines and maintain garment shape while retaining enough stretch for comfortable wear. The fabric density gives it a polished appearance suitable for professional settings, yet maintains enough give for all-day comfort. Particularly well-suited for tailored pants, structured skirts, and fitted dresses, these knits bridge the gap between formal and casual wear. Their moderate warmth makes them appropriate for year-round use in many climates, and their durability ensures they withstand frequent wear without losing their shape or appearance.
Heavyweight Double Knits (350-450 gsm)
Liverpool knit exemplifies heavyweight double knits, delivering substantial warmth and durability for colder conditions. These dense fabrics provide excellent insulation and wind resistance while maintaining the inherent stretch properties that make knits comfortable to wear. The substantial weight gives garments a luxurious feel and helps them maintain their structure even in outerwear applications. While less breathable than lighter options, heavyweight double knits excel in winter dresses, coats, and cold-weather separates where warmth and longevity are paramount. Their thickness makes them particularly resistant to wear and tear, ideal for pieces that need to withstand frequent use while retaining their polished appearance season after season.
Best Fabric Choices for Your Project
Selecting the right double knit fabric is key to achieving both the look and functionality you desire for your garment. Each type of double knit offers unique properties that make it ideal for specific applications.
- Ponte di Roma is a versatile mid-weight knit that provides excellent structure with just the right amount of stretch. Its smooth finish and polished drape make it perfect for professional wear like tailored pants, pencil skirts, and fitted blazers. The fabric holds its shape beautifully while allowing comfortable movement, making it a favorite for office-appropriate attire.
- Scuba knit offers a contemporary edge with its dense, slightly spongy texture that creates sculptural silhouettes. This fabric works wonderfully for bodycon dresses, structured peplum tops, and modern A-line skirts. Its ability to hold dramatic shapes while remaining comfortable makes it ideal for fashion-forward designs.
- Rib knits feature pronounced vertical ridges that provide exceptional stretch and recovery. This makes them the go-to choice for cuffs, neckbands, and waistbands that need to maintain their shape. Beyond functional uses, rib knits also create stylish texture in fitted sweaters, turtlenecks, and casual tops.
- Thermal knits with their distinctive honeycomb pattern are designed for performance. The raised texture traps air for insulation while allowing moisture to escape, making these fabrics perfect for activewear, base layers, and cold-weather garments.
- Double jacquard stands out for its intricate, often reversible patterns woven directly into the fabric. This elevates simple designs into statement pieces, ideal for special occasion dresses, luxurious sweaters, and high-end accessories where visual texture is key.
Caring for Your Double Knit Fabrics
Proper maintenance ensures your double knit garments retain their shape, color, and quality over time. Most double knits benefit from machine washing in cold water on a gentle cycle with mild detergent. Always turn garments inside out before washing to protect the surface.
For drying, lay items flat on a clean towel to maintain their shape as they dry. Avoid wringing or twisting the fabric, which can distort its structure. If ironing is necessary, use the lowest heat setting with a pressing cloth, or better yet, use a steamer to remove wrinkles without direct heat contact.
Storage is equally important - fold your double knit garments rather than hanging them to prevent stretching. Keep them in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to prevent fading. For specialty knits like scuba or jacquard, consider professional cleaning to preserve their unique textures and shapes.
By matching your fabric choice to your project's requirements and following these care guidelines, you'll create garments that not only look fantastic when new but continue to wear beautifully season after season. The right double knit fabric, properly cared for, becomes a long-lasting wardrobe investment.
Conclusion
Double knit fabric stands out as a versatile and durable textile, offering the perfect balance between the stretch of traditional knits and the stability of woven fabrics. Its unique two-layer construction creates a dense, structured material that resists curling, wrinkling, and distortion—making it ideal for garments that require both comfort and shape retention. With various types available, from lightweight interlock knits to heavyweight Ponte di Roma, each variety serves distinct purposes in fashion design, whether for tailored professional wear, sculptural contemporary pieces, or cozy cold-weather essentials.
The exceptional versatility of double knit fabrics allows designers to create everything from form-fitting dresses to structured outerwear while maintaining ease of movement and long-lasting wear. By understanding the different weights, textures, and properties of each type, you can select the perfect fabric for any project. Whether you prioritize drape, warmth, or durability, double knits deliver reliable performance while elevating the quality of your designs. With proper care, these fabrics remain wardrobe staples season after season, proving their value as both a practical and stylish choice in modern fashion.
